Endings and Beginnings – September 28, 2013

Today was change over day at the Marriott.  Our friends from New York were leaving and Jim’s sister Carol was arriving and we were still living the dream.

We had a plan to make the transition smooth for everyone and from our perspective it worked well.  While we were at the airport swopping guests, the villa was being cleaned to start our second week.

We waited until 10 a.m. to have breakfast at the Calypso Café which was a buffet with a pancake and waffle station and omelette station besides all the breads, fruit, and breakfast meats and potatoes.  This gave Louise and Joe a good food base for the long trip home.  They did not expect to be home before midnight not counting any unforeseen delays along the way.

We left for the airport at 12:30 and had to wave goodbye as they joined the lines into customs  and security.

st kitts 2013 001

Then we went to the arrivals portion of the Basseterre Airport to wait for Carol.  The plane she was arriving on would be the plane that carried our friends back to Miami.  The air conditioning made it a comfortable wait so we sat down for the one hour wait.  I noticed a rack filled with booklets of some kind and took one to read.  Then I noticed they were dated 1998!  I guess people don’t spend much time reading in the airport.

The plane landed and we saw Carol walking to go through customs.st kitts 2013 003  After customs came baggage claim and then finally we could officially greet our sister. Carol had spent the last week in Florida visiting with Lyle, and only had one day of sunshine the whole week.  She was glad to see the sun shining here until she realized how hot it was going to be.

We had a great time getting caught up on family and friends and went to La Belle Vie for dinner.  Louise, you didn’t miss anything that great!

Beach, Bonfire and BBQ -September 27, 2013

Today was the last day our friends Joe and Louise would be in St. Kitts with us.St Kitts 2013 019

They leave around noon tomorrow and we pick up Jim’s sister Carol at the airport to share the next week with us.  We decided a good way to spend the day was to stay on property and just take in the sun, pool, and island culture.

014Cross word puzzle was the activity for the day, take notice they used the computer to get answers

At night, the Royal Grille a property steakhouse, hosted a special event  set up on the beach.  A path of torches led the way to a section of beach lit with electric lighting, tables and chairs set up in the sand with table linens and restaurant   flatware and flowers.  There was island music playing in the background and two bonfires give it the final touch of atmosphere.  Dinner was served buffet style with a scrupulous salad bar and dessert bar.  Dinner consisted of coconut rice with peas, corn, baked potatoes, BBQ ribs, jerk chicken, mahi mahi, and a roasted suckling pig!   Not a bad way to end the week.

Side Trip to Nevus – September 26, 2013

Early in the morning we met our favorite taxi driver, Dennis, and headed to the St. Kitts/Nevus ferry to explore the sister island.st kitts 2013 013MaryGrace, Louise and Joe walking toward ferry to Nevis (what good looking legs) Continue reading

Old to New – September 25, 2013

Our big plan for Wednesday, was to spend the day on property and then go to our favorite restaurant that we found in 2008 called the Beach House.  Our first reaction when we walked into the area was “awe” when we saw the white linen draped posts,  multiple burning torches to provide the soft lighting, and heard the soothing flow of the surf on the beach.  Here’s the picture we took then.2nd - 3rd day 054

You can imagine our disappointment when we heard the Beach House was no more.  Then we called and realized they had changed location and name but was still in business.  The Pavillion was our destination for dinner tonight.  Like The Beach House, The Pavillion is located on the Caribbean side of the island in an area that is not overdeveloped.  It was almost dark as we pulled up to the restaurant so it was hard to see much of the property.  What we did see, was very tropical.  Then we were greeted at the door and welcomed to the restaurant like we were famous or important.  As we entered the dining area, our eyes were immediately drawn to the magnificent stone columns with soft lighting forming lines down the center and elegant surroundings.st kitts 2013 007 st kitts 2013 008 st kitts 2013 010 st kitts 2013 011

We were led to our table which gave us a view of the Sea as darkness fell and a luxurious looking swimming pool lite only in the water and reflecting stately palm trees around it.  There was a gentlemen play wonderful music on the steel drums and we felt confident the evening was going to be as magical as it would have been at The Beach House.

For my foodie friends, we had a special appetizer of small scallops in sweet and sour chicken sauce, Lobster pho soup with rice noodles, and steak with lobster croquet and garlic mashed potatoes and vegetables.  The steak was one of the most tender I have ever eaten and everything was wonderful.  Even the china was unique and elegant.  I took a picture of the coffee cup that was delivered with a small piece of carrot cake to show you its style. st kitts 2013 012

After we got back in the car, our driver told us this is just a facility used for million dollar homes in the area during the day (a private club) and they open in the evening to the public.  The other location is now used for private parties only.  On the way back our driver also pointed out the mansion and lands Robert Redford owns and is developing for his friends and wealthy buyers.  It’s called Sundance Ridge  (how appropriate)!

Time to Sight See -September 24, 2013

We finally decided it was time to get off the property and show our friends a few of the sights so they could fully appreciate the island. st kitts 2013 011 St. Kitts was discovered by Columbus for Spain, conquered by the French, and then taken by the English until declaring their independence in 1983.  They say they are an English-speaking country but their dialect makes understanding them a little difficult. That means that selecting a tour guide has two important criteria; knowledge of the island and understandability (is that a word?).  We found a driver named Dennis (nickname “Chiefy”) who met both criteria and off we went taking in the many vistas and panoramic views.

Our first stop was the botanical garden and Batik gallery. st kitts 2013 021st kitts 2013 016 st kitts 2013 019

If you have never seen this artwork it is unique and interesting.  Designs are sketched by artists on pure white cotton then areas that are going to stay white are covered in wax to protect it from the dye it is placed in next.  The tricky part is after the dye dries, they wax and dye up to 5 times creating various colors that takes 9 days.  The end result is amazing but the interesting part is that this art is the same on both sides of the fabric.  There is no wrong side.

The next stop was the Brimstone Hill Fortress National Park which was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1999.  The first cannon was placed on the hill in 1690 by the English trying to take the island from the French and the potential of the hill was soon recognized and utilized.  The condition of the fort and its significance to the region make it a must on any tour of the island.st kitts 2013 023 st kitts 2013 030

St Kitts island is 69 square miles with a population of 31,880 and has a volcano over 3,000 feet above sea level.  On our tour, we drove to this spot on the beach to see the lava rocks that help to create the black sand on this side of the island. st kitts 2013 031 The rich black soil is probably why the main crop on the island was sugar cane until 2004 when tourism became its main source of revenue.

This was our final stop on the tour which is probably my favorite vista.  It’s high on a hill not too far from the Marriott.  From this spot you see the Caribbean Sea on one side and the Atlantic on the other.st kitts 2013 037Note the rain shower off to the right which is over the island “Nevis” Continue reading

Day Two in St Kitts – September 23, 2013

I’m not sure what the exact definition of “foodie” is, but we may be getting close.  Day two seemed to revolve around food events starting with a Welcome to St. Kitts continental breakfast in a beautiful shady grassy spot close to the beach.  Fresh pastries and fruit are a great way to start a foodie’s day.  We took a leisurely stroll around the property to see where everything is and what is available to us to use.  Then in the pool for another water aerobics class.  This time the class was led by “Ice” an instructor I seem to remember from another trip here.  I have said it to anyone who will listen that the major difference between this island and all the other is the people.  Everyone of them is sincerely nice and they all have nicknames.  I think we should get nicknames before we leave.

Lunch was back to the Bohemia poolside restaurant.  Did I mention they make incredible smoothies?  Then to the quiet pool for reading, resting, and relaxation while we contemplated our dinner.  This trip all seven on property restaurants are open and several of them have special events.  Last night the Blu Restaurant had a Caribbean Lobster and Steel Band event.  I don’t think I have ever had Caribbean lobster but its was sweeter meat than Maine lobster.  Before the main course, there was a salad/appetizer bar that was not only extensive but delicious.  The two standout items for me were the banana croutons and mango caesar dressing.  After dinner, we had to make room for the dessert bar with guava creme brulee’, mango cheese cake, blackberry ice cream, and almond chocolate torte.  Life on this island is so taxing!

St. Kitts West Indies September 21, 2013

The first week in August we flew out to California to see our family there and it was time to go somewhere again.  This time we came to St. Kitts in the West Indies and one of our favorite vacation places.  The island is just 9 miles long with lush vegetation and beautiful aqua water and reefs like many of the other islands, but the people are what make it different.St Kitts 2013 007Looking out over the beach from resort Continue reading

Our Last Day in Key West – May 21, 2013

Anywhere you go, whether at home or traveling, some days are better than others.  Our last day in the Florida Keys, for me, was one of my favorites.

As planned, we went back to Marathon to spend more time at Crane’s Point.  This time we were not rushed and walked  through small trails seeing trees and plants unseen anywhere else in Florida.  We saw several varieties of butterflies and spent as much time as we wanted at the point.  In fact, with the clear water, we even saw a nurse shark and some parrot fish.DSCN4855 Palm Trail at Crane’s Point
DSCN4866 DSCN4868 DSCN4869The Point at Crane’s Point where we saw the nurse shark

Then we went to the Seven Mile Bridge and rode our bikes the 2.2 miles to the down ramp onto Pigeon Key. DSCN4892 DSCN4874 We didn’t go down because you would have to pay another admission fee.  You can’t tell this unless you are actually on the bridge, but when they converted the bridge from train travel to auto travel, they used the train rails to create the upright and guard rails on the sides of the bridge.DSCN4887  View of old and new bridge, take note of guard rails (old train tracks)

If you ever drove down to Key West prior to the 1984 opening of the current bridge, this narrow bridge was what you were driving on.  People driving down back then always talked about how scary the ride on the bridge was.

Next we went back to our camp site and pulled out two lounge chairs.  We put them in the shade at the water’s edge and read and rested before getting ready for a special dinner at a special restaurant.

Since Jim’s birthday was so close to our trip to the Keys, we decided to pick a really nice restaurant here in Key West for his birthday dinner and we found a great one.  Just off of Key West is another small island called Sunset Key.  On this island, the Weston Hotel has a high-end resort with cottages and a fabulous restaurant called Latitudes on the beach facing the sunset.  You must have a reservation because you have to take their ferry to get to the island.  It’s also probably the only place in Key West that actually has a dress code.DSCN4901

We had a table outside facing the water which reminded us of our favorite restaurant in St Kitts, The Beach House.  We had an excellent dinner including a Caesar salad (me) with white anchovies, Lettuce wedges (Jim) with fresh citrus, homemade  lobster and crab meat ravioli (Jim) and Grilled Yellowtail Snapper in lemon butter sauce.  Of course, we ended with coffee and Key Lime Pie and Peanut Butter Bread Pudding.  Then just as we were finishing our dessert, the clouds moved enough to allow us and all the other patrons to see a spectacular sunset.  The only word I could think of to describe our dining experience was magical!DSCN4908 View of sunset from our table at Lattitudes RestaurantDSCN4904

We leave in the morning for a one night stop in Fort Myers and the home on Thursday.  We really have no plans to speak of until the Fall and will be enjoying our home all summer.

All that Marathon Has to Offer – May 20, 2013

We decided to head in the other direction today and take in the sights and sounds of Marathon.  It’s only about 37 miles away, but with just a two lane road to travel, it takes about an hour to get there from here.

Of course the first thing we did was eat.  We found a place called the Cracked Conch Cafe that had been there for 33 years and looked like locals ate there.DSCN4836  We had conch chowder ( I had Manhattan style and Jim had New England style) and then a grilled dolphin melt on rye with Swiss cheese and all the other goodies that make it tasty.  It was good!  Trivia information:  All the conch served in the Keys comes from the Bahamas.  It is unlawful to harvest conch in the Keys.

From lunch we went to Crane Point Museum and Nature Center.  We had low expectations especially after seeing the entrance, but we were pleasantly surprised once we got inside.  This reserve consists of 63 acres NEVER developed and kept in its natural state ever since  Mr. and Mrs. Crane bought it in 1952 from the original owner, George Adderley.  Adderley came to the Keys from the Bahamas with his family.  He built their home using a technique used in the Bahamas call tabby (made of burnt seashells) in the early 1900s.  The home is still standing in its original spot and preserved.?????????????????????????????The Original Adderley home

When Flagler was bringing the railroad down to Key West, Adderley gave him the right of way through his land in exchange for a train stop on this Key.  The Cranes came to the Keys on vacation from Massachusetts and like so many others, decided to stay.  They bought the property from Adderley and quickly understood just what they had acquired.  All around the property, the key was being developed and most trees and vegetation was being destroyed.  They began the process of building a home on the bay side of the point off the water without destroying its virgin state.   The view from the point is unbelievable!????????????????????????

When we started back on the trail, I notice something big on the pathway but we were about 30 yards away.  I first thought it was a snake of some kind but as we got closer, I realized it was a HUGE lizard of some kind.  When I asked at the gift shop, they told us it was probably an Iguana.  They have a lot because people buy them for their kids and they bring them here when they get too big for them to handle.

Today, the property preserves one of the world’s last remaining thatch palm hammocks containing rare and endangered species.  I counted no fewer than 5 different types of cacti growing in the natural wooded areas.  There are over 50 of the 150 types of trees growing on this property and many of them are not seen anywhere else. ????????????Sunburnt tree – This tree is constantly peeling and looks like someone with a bad sunburn as the red part peels away. 

There is a Wild Bird Center where rehabilitating birds are kept until they can be released back into the wild.  There is a butterfly meadow with plants attracting butterflies and the museum is small but houses many displays worth seeing.  We had to catch a ferry to Pigeon Key so we couldn’t stay as long as we would have liked.  We did get a rain check and we are coming back tomorrow to enjoy the property more leisurely.

Pigeon Key was one of the camps where the workers who built the railroad and bridges lived during construction.?????????????????????????  DSCN4851House on right was the home of the Bridge Engineer/foreman after bridge was completed.
It is the key just before the infamous seven mile bridge considered at its time to be a major architectural feat.  Flagler built this entire series of bridges and railroad track with his own money.  Remember all the issues the government had at Fort Jefferson, well in true entrepreneurial fashion, Flagler thought of all that and sent his engineers to Germany to find the best solution for concrete that would withstand the salt water.  When it was completed in 1921, it had expectations of lasting for hundreds of years.  Unfortunately, the depression hit and travel to Key West was scarce.  The railroad and the bridges fell into receivership and the government bought everything for $684,000 which was a bargain since it cost Flagler $80 million.  Just like the Bahia Honda Bridge, the tracks were removed and a roadway for cars was constructed on the top of the railroad foundation.  The toll back then was $1.00 per car plus the driver and .25 for each passenger.  It was a scary roadway back then with no place to stop or turn around, so the government built a ramp down to Pigeon Key and created one of the first rest stops on US 1.????????????????????One of the houses built on the island to house families of top ranking personnel who maintained the bridge after construction.

Today, there is a new wider bridge that was built in 1984 and the old bridge has been disconnected from US 1.  It’s also possible to actually stay in one of the remaining cottages for a long weekend or week with your family right on Pigeon Key.  It sleeps up to 10 people and has two full baths.  Kinda different and priced comparable to other rooms in the area.  You actually share the island with several interns studying marine biology.

When we come back tomorrow, I think we are bringing our bikes and we will ride the old bridge.

Put Your Walking Shoes On – May 19, 2013

Since we are not “party animals” we decided to explore Key West by day and not do the typical nighttime activities.  One of the items on Jim’s bucket list is to visit all four corners of the United States.  We have already been to Lubec, Maine which is the eastern most point in the U.S. so naturally we needed a picture of the southern most point here in Key West.  We even got a shot of mile marker “0” on US 1.DSCN4800DSCN4813

Next on the list was the Key West Lighthouse which was originally on the spot where the Southern most point is now located.  It had to be moved because of damage sustained in a hurricane.  It has 88 steps to the top, but we decided neither of us had either the energy or knee functionality to do it.DSCN4801

From here we went to the Key West Cemetery.  This cemetery was established in 1847 after the hurricane of October 11, 1846 when the storm washed away the existing cemetery including most of the bodies.  The old graveyard was on the southern edge of the town and it’s rumored that some of the bodies were found in the trees.  The cemetery reflects the spirit of the people with some inscriptions that are light-hearted such as, “At least now I know where he is at night”, or “I told you I was sick”.  There is a mixture of below ground graves and, reminiscent of New Orleans, many are above ground.SAMSUNG

One interesting fact about Key West is there are colorful roosters, hens and baby chicks everywhere.DSCN4833 DSCN4834  They are protected and  actually have the right of way in the roads.  

Also, everywhere you look you see Royal Poinciana Trees with their spectacular blooms of reddish-orange.DSCN4818

We walked around the shops on Duval and Front Streets for a while but my bucket list stop of the sandal shop was closed.  Maybe, another day.  As we got closer to evening, you could hear the crowds getting noisier and the street vendors were multiplying.  Everything from leather bracelets to body art.  Time to find a restaurant for dinner!

We found a place called Two Friends Patio Restaurant right on the corner with open air dining, which I love, and had some really good food. DSCN4830 I order coconut shrimp with pineapple-orange sauce that was fabulous.  I had to get a small box for half of the shrimp because I wanted to leave room for Key Lime Pie.  According to our waitress the restaurant uses the same recipe since 1967 so that it’s authentic and it was good.  One the way out-of-town we stopped at Mathessen’s where they make 1/2 pound cookies.  Not only do these monster cookies look like something you have to have, when you taste it, your glad you did!  I got a chocolate chip, pecan, macadamia nut cookie.DSCN4809One of the many quaint homes we saw along the streets in Key West

One good thing about all this walking is you can eat more without feeling guilty.