Well in advance of our trip we signed up for a 4 x 4 tour in Arches National Park and today was our day.
Our guide showed up in a 1997 Toyota 4 wheel drive SUV in less than pristine condition and it didn’t take long to realize why. Our tour was taking us on the original roads established by the family who owned the property before donating it to the government. We are talking dirt roads, and because of the recent rain, complete with deep ruts, mud, and deep water.
Our first stop was to see dinosaur tracks confirmed by the Smithsonian found in this back country. Based on the size and shape they actually can determine the size and type which is amazing to me.
Then we ran into 3 vans of dirt bikers with insufficient knowledge of driving these roads who had gotten themselves stuck in knee-high water and mud. Lucky for them, our guide’s second job is pulling people out of the mud on this road, so we spent about 30 minutes helping these guys. Our guide, Justin, is another interesting Covid story as a double-degree college graduate (Business Management and Chemical Engineering) whose job disappeared before his first day of work. He decided to take his savings and travel and when he arrived in Moab, he decided to stay and train as a guide. Needless to say, his education lent a great deal to his ability to explain all the origins of the mountains and their current status.
After the rescue, the fun began. This is where we started the “rock crawl” where you literally crawl slowly up and down large rocks over roads marked only by tracks from other 4 x 4 vehicles. In fact, the only wildlife we saw during the 4.5 hour tour was a handful of Rubicons in various colors.
Justin took us to see arches you would never see except in this back country including Tower Arch and Whale’s eye.
Marching Men
Tower Arch
Close up of Tower Arch – person climbed down to the bottom of arch
Eye of the Whale Arch
by the way, Justin identified my “fake” plant as Desert Rhubarb which actually grows a fruit just like regular rhubarb.
It’s over 700 miles from Yosemite to Arches National Park, so we planned a stop in St George, Utah to break it up, an stayed long enough to eat dinner and sleep. The landscape driving from St. George was incredible and changed several times along the way.
Unlike the drive from Vegas to California where it looks the same most of the way, there were spectacular mountains of red sandstone, low desert areas, green mountainous areas and just lots of variety. We arrived in Moab early enough on the 28th to go into Arches mid afternoon and get to see the overall layout of the park and make a plan. Our Senior pass made entry free so it didn’t matter how long we stayed. We decided on a plan of attack and then we checked the weather (guess we did it backwards) only to find out tomorrow was going to be a washout with rain all day.
Time for Plan B. It turned cold (58 degrees) at night and the rain started around 4 a.m. but by 8 a.m. it was mostly gone so back to Plan A and off to Arches National Park. The Park touts over 2,000 arches and is divided into three sections taking in about 35 of the most interesting with hikes varying from easy to difficult. Of course, we were only considering the easy hikes knowing full well there would be some we couldn’t do. Here are pictures of what we saw:
Skyline Arch
Delicate Arch
Sand Dune Arch
Broken Arch
Tunnel Arch
Pine Tree Arch
North Window Arch
South Window Arch
Turret Arch
Double Arch
One of the last arches we saw was Landscape Arch which is the longest in the park. In 1991 some hikers were resting under it and heard some crackling which was they thought was thunder. Turned out to be rock breaking away from the arch causing it to get even thinner. Eventually this will happen to all the arches and they will become U-shaped.
When all was said and done, we had walked 9.5 miles and had over 24,000 steps. Actually I wimped out before we saw the last arch on the plan. With all this hiking, we noticed some vegetation that looked almost artificial like something you would buy at Hobby Lobby. Any idea what it turned out to be?
Well, we reached and exceeded our Fitbit step goal today!
Using a walking tour guide we found on Amazon, we spent almost 2 hours walking around the historic area of Topeka, Kansas today. The weather was perfect and because it was a holiday, the area was basically deserted. We literally saw no more than five cars during the whole time we were there and Jim could stand in the middle of the street to get all the pictures he wanted. It was like visiting a ghost town, not the Capital of Kansas. An interesting thing about Topeka is that it’s population is smaller than Ocala!
There were 29 different buildings on the tour that led us about four miles around the area starting with the State Capital Building. It’s definitely an impressive building with a copper dome higher than the U. S. Capital dome. It would take 2.3 million solid copper pennies to make up the dome today, but there is no such thing as solid copper pennies.
Here are pictures of some of the more interesting buildings:
East Entrance to Capitol
Memorial Building celebrating end of Civil War
Memorial to Harry Colmery, author of GI bill
City of Topeka established 1854
Thacher Newspaper Building – 1888
Central National Bank 1882
First Kresge Store
Skyline of Downtown Topeka
German American State Bank
Knox/Columbian Building 1888
Federal Reserve Life Insurance Company 1922
1st Car Dealership – Studebaker
St John’s AME church 1868
First Presbyterian Church 1884 – Tiffany Windows
We had a wonderful lunch at a place called the Blue Moose and then planned on visiting the zoo but we learned that the Asian elephant, Cora, was reaching the end of life at 63 years old and I just couldn’t bring myself to go. Instead, we checked out some other historic sites like the Old Prairie Village and Botanical Gardens.
Botantical Gardens at Old Prairie Town
Then we drove to the Great Overland Station formerly the home of the Union Pacific Station, now a museum of Topeka’s railroad heritage and the historic site of the Brown v. Board of Education aimed at ending racial segregation in public schools.
Overland Train Station
We leave in the morning for Colorado Springs. I’m looking forward to more good hair days without the Florida humidity.
Today starts the beginning of our Fall trip for this year and we are ready to see some sights, experience new restaurants and visit new places. Being locked down and staying home is taking a toll on our congeniality and this trip was not a minute too soon. Just passing the “thank you for visiting Florida sign” lifted pounds off our moods.
We stopped twice at Buc-ee’s Travel Stops because they have the cleanest restrooms on the planet and their chopped brisket sandwich is not too shabby either. If you haven’t visited a Buc-ee’s yet, make sure you do when you see one. They are a destination worth the stop. Be prepared, though. They are always crowded.
Because we crossed into Central Time Zone, it was only 4:30 when we arrived at our hotel. It turned out to be relatively new Marriott Residence Inn with all the amenities. Since we ate breakfast and lunch in the Eastern Time Zone, we were hungry and found our way to the Franklin Chophouse eating quasi healthy food and then a quick tour of downtown Franklin. What a cute town! No New York or Los Angeles but not too small either with lots of shops and restaurants with outdoor tables. This has just become a place on my future bucket list for Christmas some year. I didn’t notice until we started walking, but the humidity is much lower here as is the temperature. Tomorrow should be a good hair day!
We have traveled to every State in the U.S. and seen many unusual things offered in other areas, but today we discovered right here in our area is an exotic animal preserve housing seven Asian elephants, a dromedary, a zebra, a family of lemurs and more. This fourth generation, 100 acre farm is the last of its kind in this country and according to the owner, in less than 10 years the Asian elephant is destined to be extinct unless the 1974 ban on exotic animal captivity reproduction and care is lifted. The ban was designed to protect the animal, but like so many government regulations, it has done more to harm than help. When the bald eagle was facing extinction, they began captivity breeding and care and now it is no longer in jeopardy and actually is thriving in every State. That is one of the reasons you rarely see elephants in a zoo these days. Most of those born prior to the ban are dying off and the population growth in the natural habitats of these animals is shrinking very quickly; too quickly to allow them to thrive. Last year alone there were 3,000 killed in India from eating garbage, hit by vehicles, etc. The droughts in the middle east and Africa are killing tens of thousand per year.
Off my soapbox and on to the adventure. In Williston, Florida is the Two Tails Ranch where, by appointment only, you can learn all about Asian elephants and meet 5 of the 7 housed there with fairly close interaction. The farm run by the owner, Patricia Zerbini, and her two sons and daughters-in-law do these tours as a way of earning enough money to care for the animals. According to her story, her great grandfather began keeping and caring for exotic animals and it became the family business down through the generations. Her misfortune was she picked the most expensive animals to care for.
After explaining the differences between the African and Asian elephants and some valuable information, we were able to ask as many questions as we could come up with. Then Luke came up close to show us his painting hobby. Unlike a certain President’s son, Luke’s paintings do not sell for six figure prices! You can, however, buy them in the Gift Shop. He even took a bow at the end.
two-tails-luke-painting
Luke Taking a Bow
One of the questions we asked was how did you train him to do that? Patricia assured us you don’t really teach an elephant to do anything it doesn’t want to do but that Luke was raised from a baby and spent a lot of time with her sons. He plays soccer, basketball and loves to paint, so that’s what he does.
It was interesting to hear that the Asian elephant is the direct descendant of the Mammoth of the ice age (see his crossed tusks) and because of its size and weight, it cannot lay down for more than 15 minutes because his internal organs will shift inside and his lungs will fill with water and he will drown. They also have to move constantly to redistribute their weight to prevent damage to internal organs.
Anyone who was interested in taking a photo with an elephant could pay $5 for the privilege which we declined because we had our sights on bigger and better things.
Next you had an opportunity to hand feed an elephant for a fee of course. Actually, I don’t begrudge them the fees because this all helps to offset the cost of feeding and housing them.
Kind of like a weak wet vac!
Recognize the guy in the red shirt?
Of course the best came last. We were actually able to ride Patty the elephant for a short distance around the paddock. You could feel each leg move under the blanket with each step. I had no idea that my body had gotten so old and rigid until I had to spread my legs wide enough to fit over Patty’s back. I was really glad it only lasted one loop around the paddock or they may have had to get reinforcements to get me off.
The rest of the tour included the dromedary, zebra, African tortoise and Lemurs which were nice to see but are available at most zoos. If Ms. Zerbini is correct, Two Tails Ranch may be one of the few places people will be able to see Asian elephants in years to come.
One last trip for 2019 with three stops designed to celebrate the season. The first stop was in Concord, North Carolina where the Speedway is turned into a Christmas Wonderland. They have taken over 4 million lights strung across a remarkable 3.75 mile drive-thru course. Many of the lights were set to music you could hear on your car radio. Half way around the track you stop at the Christmas Village with food, firepits, Festival of Trees, and a Christmas Movie Theatre.
Light show in the grandstands
Tunnel into and out of the infield of the raceway
Even though Speedway Christmas was lots of fun, it was not the main reason we left sunny Florida for the rain and cold weather of Mid-Atlantic region. Our main stop was Arlington Cemetery in Washington, D.C. For several years, we have been contributing to Wreaths Across America which is a not-for profit organization that puts Christmas wreaths on the graves of service men and women buried at Arlington. This year we decided to go in person and help put out the wreaths. It was an incredibly moving experience and when it was over just under 40,000 volunteers put over 257,000 wreaths on the graves.
We were instructed to lay the wreath at a 45 degree angle to help prevent the wind from blowing them over. Once you positioned the wreath, you were to say the persons name out loud and thank them for their service or whatever else you wanted to say. The premise behind saying their name is the philosophy that every person dies twice; once when their physical body dies and a second time when no one ever says their name again. Many of the graves that I saw were young soldiers when they died during WWI, WWII or Vietnam and it made me feel proud to say their name again to keep their sacrifice alive. We will let the pictures tell the rest of the story.
Entrance to Arlington National Cemetery
Opening ceremony at the McClellan Gate within the cemetery
Stood in line to get wreath then you placed it on any grave stone without wreath
Guard at Unknown Soldier’s Grave
Our final stop on the way home was Charleston. We walked along the Battery and saw some beautifully decorated old homes before headed back to our beloved Florida and 81 degree temperatures.
Since Thanksgiving is so late this year, like many other people we started preparing early. Before we left for Texas for Thanksgiving, we managed to decorate two Christmas Trees and the outside of our house.
When we arrived at Debbie and Kerry’s home, we were whisked off to College Station, Texas to see and experience Santa’s Wonderland. And it was, in fact, a “wonderland” complete with snow falling from the sky as we entered the main gate. Not real snow, but nevertheless, snow. After Santa made his big entrance, we were free to roam the huge grounds complete with ice slides, firepits for toasting Smore’s, shops and a 20 minute hayride through their elaborate light display. What a great way to start the season.
Santa Arriving
The following are the light displays we saw from Hay Ride
After the Hay Ride we saw these sights
Gingerbread houses of all types
Let it Snow, Let it Snow, Let it Snow
Entrance of Santa Wonderland all lit up
Thanksgiving was a wonderful time with great food, prepared by Chef Kerry, family and friends on a perfect weather day.
So perfect we could even sit around the firepit to end the day. Great Thanksgiving.
Saturday morning was a scenic sail on the Rhine with views of castles and wineries at every turn. The wind made sitting on the top deck difficult but that was the best place to see these old castles, each with its own story. Unfortunately, I can’t remember any of them. It was nice to be able to be on the top deck again now that it has been re-opened. During two days sailing on the Main, the deck had to be closed down and literally flattened to be able to pass under some of the bridges.
By 2 PM we docked in Braubach and were transported by motor coach to Marksburg Castle which is one of only two castle not destroyed. The value and the significance of Marksburg Castle can be found in particular in its complete preservation as a medieval fortress.
Marksburg Castle from Rhine River
Although it was a challenge to get to with uneven walkways, narrow stairways, and multi-levels, it was an excellent representation of buildings dating back to the 13th to 15th century. This castle was built more for protection than as a residence for a royal family with cannons and protected entryway, etc. But it did contain some interesting interior rooms such as castle kitchen, great hall, bedchamber, chapel, armory, wine cellar and battlements.
Entry into Marksburg Castle
Kitchen in Castle
Icebox
Master Bedroom
Dinning Room
Chapel in Castle
View of Rhine River from Castle
It currently serves as a museum so it included a display of armor through the years and also a torture chamber.
Our motor coaches took us to Koblenz, where our ship had docked for the night. We were able to walk around Koblenz if we wanted because the ship was not leaving until 3:30 AM.