Monthly Archives: August 2018

Denali (the Great One) in the Rain -August 6, 2018

From Fairbanks, it was a half day ride to Denali Princess Lodge where we would take one of the infamous school buses into the National Park.DSCN8653DSCN8651  Mind you, it’s still raining.  What we found out is Mount McKinley was given it’s name as a political gesture before President McKinley was elected and has been trying to change it’s name back to the Native name (Great One) until it finally succeeded during President Obama’s administration.  Talk about political bureaucracy!  Unfortunately, we also found out that only 30% of the visitors actually get to see the mountain because of the weather.  That’s something they don’t put into the travel brochures either.

Actually the “school buses” are not bad at all and are more comfortable than some airplanes I’ve ridden on, but that’s another story.  Our driver has a degree in environmental engineering but became attracted to Alaska and is happy driving this bus during the summer and being a personal chef to people with medical issues in the winter.  This year she is planning to stay in Alaska and live in a dry cabin with no plumbing or electricity.  Truthfully, the Alaskan mentality of self-sufficiency and modest means is admirable but not one I fully understand.

 

As soon as got into the park, we spotted a mother moose and baby. DSCN8630 Unfortunately that would be the extent of the animals we saw during our trip into the park.  There were stops along the route when we would get off the bus and walk some but it seemed like every time we got out of the bus, it would rain hard.  Our first stop was a cabin with a guide giving a presentation while she stood on the covered porch and we stood in the pouring rain.  I have no idea what she said only that it seemed to me that she didn’t shorten her speech at all given the rain.DSCN8632

After being totally drenched, the rest of the trip into the park was a blur.  Jim got this picture to prove we were there but please don’t ask me to describe it because I  couldn’t.   When we got back to the lodge, I  was so frustrated I ate a reindeer hot dog and didn’t ask it’s name.

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Pictures in Denali Park

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What a Fun Day! – August5, 2018

This area of Alaska has an average of 10 to 12 inches of rain per year and we must have experienced 6 inches since we got here.  Today’s forecast is for 1 or 2 more inches but that didn’t stop or slow down the activities for one minute.

We started by boarding the Riverboat Discovery on the Chena River with Captain Kai, who made history in 1998 by becoming the youngest woman to be certified by the Coast Guard as  a sternwheel riverboat Captain.  We’ve taken many riverboat cruises on our travels but this stood out as probably the best ever.DSCN8613  Before we started, however, we had to go to the 40 Below Room in the gift shop for a picture with our new friends and the sense of what that temperature feels like.  Needless to say, we didn’t stay in there long.20180815_190907.jpg

This particular company started over 100 years ago and remains a family owned business with sons, daughters, grandchildren and even a great-grandchild working in entry level tasks.  We started down the river seeing some beautiful homes like thisDSCN8611 that makes me think of the “dry” cabins we’ve seen elsewhere with no water, plumbing, or electricity.  Definitely a land of contrasts.  Then we watched a prearranged takeoff and landing of a seaplane right in the river near the boat.DSCN8578  We were told that 84% of the population has an airplane of some kind. We listened and watched while eating wild blueberry donut.

Then came a stop at the home and kennel of Susan Butcher, four time winner of the Iditarod and first woman ever to win it.  Susan passed away in 2006, a Cancer victim, but her husband Dave and two daughters continue the legacy.  From the ship we watched Dave take a team of dogs through their paces and watched as some puppies got their fun time training.

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These dogs are so strong they have to tie off the ATV until they are ready to go.  They use ATV in place of sled when no snow to keep training up during summer months

 

Farther down the river, they have created a replica of aa Athabascan Indian village complete with Alaskan guides.DSCN8599  Check out the picture of the two moose with locked horns. IMG_2578 They were found locked together in the ice where they died because they could not unlock themselves.

Back to port for family style lunch of stew (not sure if it was beef or reindeer or something else) veggies, salad, sourdough bread, and some kind of chocolate dessert.  Then back on the coach to head to Gold Dredge 8.

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This was a functioning gold dredging operation from 1928 to 1959 when the government fixed price of gold at $35 an ounce made it no longer profitable and caused the company to permanently close down.  Up until then, they had been extracting 4,000 ounces of gold every two weeks.  After seeing all that was out there, we had an opportunity to pan for gold ourselves. DSCN8622 Jim and I combined took home $22 worth of gold.  Of course, they then wanted to sell you a $50 locket to put it in.  I’ll pass.

I forgot to mention this dredge is really close to the pipeline so Jim finally got a picture in the blog.DSCN8626

 

Leaving the Wilderness – August 4, 2018

Before we left the Copper River Lodge, we took a short excursion with sled dogs on what looked like a surrey with bicycle tires.  Bear in mind it was still raining. Yup, I put on my new waterproof jacket, put the hood over my head and headed outside to meet the 4 dogs who were going to give us a ride.  They brought a fellow along with them named John and he did the introductions.  There was Lily and daughter Shelly, Tony and dog-in-training Nadine.  These four dogs pulled us around at probably 20 miles an hour with no hesitation and John told us on snow they can go faster.  The entire family of dogs is 17 strong which includes 3 retirees who just sit by the fire most days.  We spent time getting to know the dogs and hearing about how they are trained.  Really fun.

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The bus arrived and we all piled on for our trip to Fairbanks on the Richardson Highway that parallels the pipeline most of the way.  At one time this highway was just a walking trail called “dead horse trail” (I can only guess why) used by the prospectors to get to the mines.

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Oil Pipeline through Alaska

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The story of the pipeline is fascinating if you ever want to look it up but, in addition to the conflict and history, the engineering that had to go into it is amazing.   The oil has to be heated so it will flow easily in the cold but warm oil could melt the perma-frost in some areas.  They developed a method of taking CO2 from the air and create refrigeration where necessary.  Some of the pipeline is above ground and some is buried under rivers and on Caribou trails.  It is a real masterpiece of technology and environmental protection.

We  stopped at an old roadhouse still functioning for lunch and were treated to lots of old stories and antiques from years gone by.

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Garden at Rika’s Roadhouse

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Tanana River by Rika’s Roadhouse on the way to Fairbanks

Last stop before we got to Fairbanks was the North Pole, AK

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Who else but Santa at North Pole

How’s the Weather? – August 2 & 3, 2018

The short answer is I bought another jacket that has a waterproof side.  Rain everyday has been our experience so far.  On Thursday it wasn’t too bad because we were traveling most of the day to Copper River  Princess Lodge  with just a lunch stop in Palmer for lunch and a stop to see a glacier. Palmer was started as an experiment during the Depression as a government run colony of young families given land, house, barn and animals and lots of rules. Surprise!  By 1940 it was deemed a failure and the colony became a normal community with very few government rules and still exists.

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Downtown Palmer

The lodge is exactly what you would imagine a lodge in Alaska would be like including the a large common room complete with fireplace and conversation groups of sofas and easy chairs.  20180803_20554720180803_205641There are even games and tables for folks to gather to play cards.  It is located on 200 acres right outside the Wrangell-St Elias National Park which is larger than Yellowstone, Yosemite and Switzerland combined and has higher mountains.  Because the lodge is so close to the Ranger Station, there are regular presentations at the lodge about the park.  This is an outdoorsman’s paradise designed for hiking and fishing.

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View from large common room

At 8:30 every evening they have a flag lowering ceremony  where they take down the Princess, Alaska,  and U. S. flags and acknowledge any veterans in the group.  Jim was in that group.20180802_20334820180803_092147

Today, we went on a rafting excursion down the river, in the rain.  The company provided boots and rain gear to make it more bearable.  We saw several eagles and moose tracks, plus a fish wheel with several fish in it.  These wheels are used by some natives to catch their quota of salmon each season.  A family has a quota of 500 per season to sustain themselves.

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Eagle along the river

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Fish wheel

Tomorrow, we move from this remote location to Fairbanks which may be more our speed.

 

 

We’re Here – August 1, 2018

We were awake at 4 a.m. to get to the airport on time for our flight to Alaska and we arrived at around 11:30 a.m. their time (they are not on daylight savings time).  I was dressed in my flip flops, jeans, and light weight jacket but it was rainy and overcast and I was cold.  Lots of people told me Anchorage was not cold in the summer but it was.  The bus driver said it was 78 degrees and sunny yesterday but I  was cold.

The Captain Cook Hotel is beautiful and very close to the Coastal Trail walkway that goes 10 miles at the waters edge with great views.  After lunch  we took a walk on it and lost track of time and place.  We walked almost 6 miles before we made our way back.  Everytime we pulled out our map to see where we were, someone would stop to help us.  Very nice people!

Anchorage is very much like most cities of about 300,000 people except the baskets of flowers.  We saw this in Michigan too.  I guess when you have a short growing window, it’s easier to make them look nice.

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For dinner we found a little place around the corner from the hotel called the International Hot Dog House complete with buffalo and reindeer hot dogs.  I could not bring myself to eat reindeer  (it’s just wrong to eat something you name) but I thoroughly enjoyed my buffalo dog.

As you can imagine , we went to sleep early to prepare for another day tomorrow even though it was light outside until after 10 p.m.