Trains, Indians and Falls – August 25-26, 2018

We were both surprised to hear that this area shared in the history of gold mining and then tungsten and finally lithium. Just outside the Mount Rushmore location are two towns established because of the mines that are once again connected by the railroad although now, it’s cargo is tourists and not minerals.  Yesterday we were two of those tourists being transported back to the time when steam engines rolled up the 800 feet above sea level to get from Keystone to Hill City.

Refurbished steam engine and cars

Real Conductor collecting our tickets

Wildlife along the tracks  through the Black Hills of South Dakota

Of course, we didn’t have to ride in closed box cars but had very comfortable passenger cars complete with padded seats and conductors.  These passenger cars dated back to the early 1900’s, acquired 100 years later and refurbished for tourist use.

Later in the afternoon we ventured to the Crazy Horse Memorial curious about why it was taking so long when Rushmore was completed in 14 years.  After all, its just another mountain carving, right?

Actually being there and reading and hearing the story changed our opinions dramatically.  This is the story of a family’s mission not just a sculpture.  Korczak Ziolkowski was orphaned at age one and subjected to harsh treatment at multiple foster homes and became a self-taught sculptor who was asked to work with Borgham on the Rushmore mountain project.  He became recognized as a great talent at the 1939 World’s Fair and was contacted by Chief Henry Standing Bear to recognize the Native American people in the Black Hills in the same way, Rushmore recognized the American Presidents.  Korczak was 31 years old when he accepted the project depicting Crazy Horse, a true Lakota warrior and hero.  According to some material we read, prior to the 1800’s there were somewhere between 60-80 millions Native American Indians in the lower 48 and Canada.

Over the years these people were forced to change their culture and adopt the ways of the ‘white man’, give up their lands and customs.  Korczak didn’t just accept the project of sculpting Crazy Horse but set about establishing a Foundation that has a mission to protect and preserve the culture, tradition, and living heritage of the North American Indians through education with the establishment of the Indian University of North America and Medical Center, in addition to erecting the sculpture.

In the early days, he did all the work himself.  After creating a 1/32 scale model of his sculpture, he began the arduous work of climbing up and down the mountain to blast and drill away the unused rock.  Over the years, his wife and 10 children all became a part of his mission and today his children and grandchildren are all a integral part of the Foundation.  Korczak actually turned down a $1 million grant from the government because he was afraid their intervention would alter the mission.

Today, the face is completed and you can see the outstretched arm and beginnings of the horse’s head, but the University and Medical Center are active and working entities.  We were told by the volunteer at the Visitors’ Center that the sculpture would not be done in our children’s lifetime, but hopefully, the education and health portion of the mission will thrive long after the statue is done.

Sunday afternoon was a good day to drive north to see the water falls and Spearfish Canyon Byway.  This deep canyon is flanked by steep vertical rock walls peppered with evergreen trees, probably a rock climber’s dream and a coward’s (like me) nightmare. 

As we drove, we noticed quite a few freshly downed trees close to the highway and even some tree tops with the telltale signs of being snapped off like you would see with a tornado.  We wondered if that hail storm we experienced on Thursday could have caused the damage, but never got an answer.

Bridal Veil Falls

Spearfish Falls

Spearfish Creek

After Shoshone Falls, the Bridal Veil and Spearfish Falls were nice but not dramatic.  There were interpretive signs down the walkway to the Spearfish Falls with two things of note.  One talked about tiny holes we had seen in the bark of the Aspen trees on the path down to the base.  These are made by the Red-napped Sapsucker which are birds that make these tiny holes releasing the sap.  Then when insects get caught in the sap, the birds come back and eat them.  Creation is a marvel!

Holes in tree made by Red-napped Sapsuckers

Sitting on the front porch of Spearfish Lodge after our little hike to see falls.  A great view of the canyon

Finally, there was a quote from an unknown author that needs to be repeated.  “Water cuts through rock, not because of its power, but because of its persistence.”

We ended our trek with a brief visit to Sturgis, just 20 miles away from Spearfish.  As expected, this town is all things motorcycle.